Our woodFill material is available in our webshop and consists of about 70% colorFabb PLA and 30% woodfibre. This means that in general you’ll need to print this material at PLA temperatures. To help you along with fine tuning your machine for woodFill here is our process of calibrating the Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2 and Makerbot Replicator 2. Woodfill can be printed with standard 0.4mm Nozzles like a normal filament. If you’re 3d printer can switch nozzles easily then we definitely recommend trying to print with a bigger nozzle anyways, it is awesome!

Getting started
For your first prints with woodFill we advise to start out with relatively high layer heights. While experimenting we noticed that woodFill performs better at 0,25-0,3mm layer height, combined with printing speeds of about 50-80 mm/s. These settings ensure that the filament is traveling quite fast through the hot-zone of the extruder so the material can’t degrade within the hot-end because of long exposure to heat.
Further down this post you’ll find profiles for the Ultimaker original, Ultimaker 2 and the Makerbot Replicator. You can use these profiles as a starting point and adjust them to your own liking.

A little warning
So about printing woodFill. It’s important to NOT let woodfill stay still in a hot hot-end for too long without extruding.When starting up a new print make sure your g-code and 3d printer are ready to go! Also keep an eye on your printer, if things go wrong then it’s better to shut down the 3d printer sooner than later. This way the woodfill won’t degrade in the hotend and will save you some work cleaning the hot-end.

Retraction settings
WoodFill is a bit more free flowing compared to your normal PLA. So a little higher retraction speed and distance might be needed. Using the hollow pyramid we dialled in our settings for the Ultimaker and Makerbot for 0.27mm layerheight profile. To reduce some of the variables we’ll start with the following preset settings:

  • Layerheight: 0.27mm
  • Speed: 50mm/s
  • Minimal layertime: 8s

Get the calibration file at: Thingiverse

Retraction settings woodFill - 0.27mm layerheight

3d PrinterRetraction speed
(mm/s)
Retraction distance
(mm)
Temperature
(C)
Ultimaker
(Cura 13.11.2)
405.5205
Makerbot Replicator
(Makerware 2.4.0.14)
251.3190

Profiles for woodFill

colorfabb_woodFill-fine_027_UltimakerOriginal (set temperature manually at 190-205C)
colorfabb_woodFill-fine_027_Ultimaker2 (set temperature manually at 190-205C)
colorfabb_woodFill-fine_027_Replicator2

The hollow pyramid printed on the Ultimaker, with retraction settings posted in the table above.

The hollow pyramid printed on the Makerbot Replicator, with retraction settings posted in the table above.

A super cute wooden Octo says hi!

[mwi_product sku=”030002″/]
Showing 23 comments
  • Thomas Wown
    Reply

    I printed this off: https://pinshape.com/items/20767-3d-printed-wooden-barrel-wine-rundlet using an Ultimaker 2. Wooden filaments are surprisingly AWESOME!

  • kevin clayton
    Reply

    would this be light or heavier than standard pla?

    • Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Reply

      The woodFill filament is lighter than standard PLA.
      We sell a spool of 600gr of material which has about the same length as a regular 750gr PLA/PHA spool.
      The same goes for bambooFill (600gr) and corkFill (650gr).

  • Oninoshiko
    Reply

    I’ve seen some people with similar products varying the print-speed (I think) to create colour variation similar to the rings in solid wood. Has anyone tried this technique with colorfabb’s filament? Does it work or present any problems?

  • Doug
    Reply

    Oops…forgot to add my next question.
    Does woodfill provide less flex than ABS? I’m looking for something that has some, but very little flex.

  • Doug
    Reply

    Does woodfill damage the nozzle over time?

    • Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Reply

      Hi Doug,
      The wood fibers used should not cause any extra wear on the nozzle.
      As we do not produce or work with ABS I can’t do a direct comparison, but woodFill is not especially stiff.
      It’s less stiff than our regular PLA/PHA.
      For specific material questions, you could also send us an email at support@colorfabb.com

  • videocatalog
    Reply

    Hi everyone!

    Do you think I can use the profile for Makerbot Replicator in a Makerbot Z18? The reason I am asking this before actually trying it out myself is because I have spent almost an entire spool making unsuccessful tests with another 3d printer (i3 Berlin), and I would appreciate not going into the same path of blind frustrating experimentation all over again.
    Thanks for any feedback you might have!

    • Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Reply

      I see you’ve also contacted support for this matter, so we will take a closer look from there.
      We have no experience with the Makerbot Z18 so we can not guarantee it’ll work.

  • Frank
    Reply

    I have printed a statue with the woodfill, the result is really amazing. What are the best ways to post process the result with this filament? I used extruder 210 degrees, bed 60 degrees (below that it would not stick to the bed), no retraction (retraction causes the filament to get stuck, because of grinding) and 40 mm/s speed 0.8mm nozzle.

    • Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Reply

      Hi Frank,

      You can use a wide range of post-processing technics on materials like this.
      It will respond to sanding and you can also paint or sometimes even stain the print.
      Keep in mind though that there is still a lot of PLA material inside, so make sure to keep heat to a minimum when post-processing. You can heat it up pretty quickly when using a dremel or other fast moving tool.

  • Nevzat Kuru
    Reply

    Hi, Can I use same settings with BambooFill filament and I used this settings but Printing stopped after nearly 1 hour. (Feeder broke filament and it was separeted 2 piece. ) I have Ultimaker 2 GO.

    Thanks
    Nevzat

    • Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Jos Deelen - colorFabb Team
      Reply

      Hi Nevzat,

      You should be able to use roughly the same settings yes.
      But keep in mind that no two printers are exactly the same and you may need to fine-tune for your specific printer.
      If you send us some more information regarding your issues to support@colorfabb.com we can take a closer look with you.

      The main focus should be to keep a constant and high enough material flow.

  • DruckWege
    Reply

    Hi Hoang Le,
    we had some issues with the woodfill as well. Tried it yesterday first time on the FabrikatorMini. The feeder bite either too much into the material and didn’t allow the feeding into the tube or after adjusting the pressure of the clamp, the material was squished and feeding got stuck. We adjusted the clamping after monitoring a while and figured the lever of the filament from the spool to the conveyor needs to be as small as possible. If there is too much mechanical stress from pulling the filament into your printer, the conveyor either bites into the material and squishes or gets stuck. Try to avoid curves and levers from the spool to the feeder/conveyor…hope that helps. a working result is here in the making:
    https://twitter.com/DruckWege

    Cheers, DruckWege

  • Keith Rogers
    Reply

    Tried to print on my Felix 3.0 with a .5 mm nozzle: no luck. Can’t get it to reliably extrude. If I put pressure on it manually, it will extrude OK, but seems like the gears on the extruder can’t get a good enough grip on the filament to force it through. I am able to print laywood OK, however. Hoping someone will have a suggestion, as it would be a shame to have wasted >$60.

    • Jos Deelen
      Jos Deelen
      Reply

      Sorry for the late reply Keith!

      If you haven’t already, please send this question to support@colorfabb.com with some more details about your printer settings and possibly some pictures etc.

      We haven’t seen any added difficulties trying to print it with a 0,5mm nozzle in our lab.
      Make sure to always clean the nozzle extra good after a failed print / clog, to make sure there are no residual wood particles left inside the hotend.

  • Blake Azuela
    Reply

    I have ran into jams as well! More so with the woodfill. Thats when I read about seasoning your flament. The simple story is to lightly coat your PLA with vegetable or canola oil. I did this by lightly absorbing some oil into a sponge and then pressing my filament through the sponge before entering the extrusion head. I have made this much prettier now and printed little cases for my filament to pass through since discovering this but I no longer jam at all!

  • Hoang Le
    Reply

    hi, I’m having issues with woodfill. with 0.4 nozzle it prints quite nice but every print jam after few hours. I changed to 0.75 nozzle but there is too much ooze, changing the kisslicer de-string setting with 5.5mm suck and speed of 40mm/s does not help. So far I have not achieve any successfull print.
    please help

  • Frédéric Chauveau De Villoutre
    Reply

    Do you have a profile for the Replicator 2X ? your Replicator 2 profile does not work at all…

    • gijshoudijk
      gijshoudijk
      Reply

      Hi Frédéric, the Replicator 2x is generally an ABS machine and not so much a PLA machine. Keep the machine open so the drive bolt and mechanism can cool, which should prevent it from melting into the filament and cause feeder problems.

      Contact us at support@colorfabb.com if you have any other questions.

      Gijs

      • Frédéric Chauveau De Villoutre
        Reply

        I modified my replicator 2x with the Robosavvy kit and now it works very well… first results at 0.1mm without post traitement…

      • Frédéric Chauveau De Villoutre
        Reply

        Hello…
        I used the Robosavvy kit for the replicator 2x and now it works very well…
        Thanks
        Fred

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